Custom Clothing

Sunday, October 15, 2006

Dress For Interview Success

While the college campus may be the perfect forum in which to exhibit your flair for the latest in fashion style, the interview is not the place to do so. With very few unusual exceptions (my apologies to Apple Computer), sandals and sweatshirts are out. Oxfords and business suits are still in. I don't like a necktie (noose?) any better than the next person, but it is still a fact of life in interviewing. Even though many companies have relaxed the internal company dress code, interviews still follow the conservative standard. Don't buck the trend.

Unfortunately, most college grads are woefully underprepared with proper interview dress. They feel they can "get by" with what is already in their wardrobe. Usually not. Dress for the world outside college is quite different from the campus scene. Remember that stylish is not conservative. You should be doing the talking, not your clothes.

This is not to say that you need to go out and buy a whole new wardrobe. Go for quality over quantity. One or two well-chosen business suits will serve you all the way to the first day on the job and beyond. Then, when you are making some money (and have a chance to see what the standard "uniform" is for the company), you can begin to round out your wardrobe. For now, no one will fault you for wearing the same sharp outfit each time you interview. If you desire some variety within a limited budget, you might consider varying your shirt/blouse/tie/accessories as a simple way to change your look without breaking your wallet.

For those of you who need a quick review of the basics, follow these guidelines for successful interview dress:

Men and Women
* Conservative two-piece business suit (solid dark blue or grey is best)
* Conservative long-sleeved shirt/blouse (white is best, pastel is next best)

* Clean, polished conservative shoes
* Well-groomed hairstyle
* Clean, trimmed fingernails
* Minimal cologne or perfume
* Empty pockets--no bulges or tinkling coins
* No gum, candy or cigarettes
* Light briefcase or portfolio case
* No visible body piercing (nose rings, eyebrow rings, etc.)




Men
* Necktie should be silk with a conservative pattern
* Dark shoes (black lace-ups are best)
* Dark socks (black is best)
* Get a haircut; short hair always fares best in interviews
* No beards (unless you are interviewing for a job as a lumberjack!)
* Mustaches are a possible negative, but if you must, make sure it is neat and trimmed
* No rings other than wedding ring or college ring
* No earrings (if you normally wear one, take it out)

Women

* Always wear a suit with a jacket; no dresses
* Shoes with conservative heels
* Conservative hosiery at or near skin color (and no runs!)
* No purses, small or large; carry a briefcase instead
* If you wear nail polish (not required), use clear or a conservative color
* Minimal use of makeup (it should not be too noticeable)
* No more than one ring on each hand
* One set of earrings only




One final note on interview dress: while it goes without saying that your interview clothes should be neat and clean, very few interviewees give the same time and attention to their shoes. Shoes? Yes, shoes. I am aware of at least one Corporate Recruiter who forms first impressions based solely (pardon the pun) on shoes. This person does not have a shoe fetish--he subjectively judges that those who pay attention to details like their shoes are also likely to be diligent in their work life. And it is not just that person's opinion. Many have said that you can judge a person by their shoes. You will find that many ex-military officers (many of whom have found their way into management positions in corporate America) are especially aware of a person's shoes. It is not enough to be clean, pressed, and ironed. Make sure your shoes are conservative, clean, and polished.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Sunday, October 01, 2006

The Easy Fix - The seasons New Jacket Styles - A Quick Change From Fromal To Casual Wear

There may be one shortcut into men’s fashion this autumn: the sport coat. Sure, men could take the trouble to get familiar with the season’s head-to-toe checklist of fashions, form the right dress shirt (stores are pushing spread collars) to shoes (brogues, wingtips and lots of brown). But compared with women’s styles tend to stick around longer in the men’s department, which is on surprise to all the guys still wondering in their guts and go back to pleated pants. (Most designers still favor flat pant fronts.)
The result is that it can take just a few new threads for a man to bring himself up to date. This autumn, the easiest way to update a wardrobe is to add a modern sport coat.
Sale of these coats are already one a tear in the U.S., prompting retailers from luxury department store Neiman Marcus to mass-market chain Jos. A. Bank to push them again for autumn. Last year, sales rose 22.7% in the U.S. to $1.5 billion, while sales of suits roes less than half a percent to $2.9 billion, according to market researcher NPD Group.
We asked fashion directors to recommend the season’s latest styles, hunting for jacket that could transform an outfit from in conspicuous to Hollywood producer but that would still fit an average sized executive. But we discovered the industry is throwing in few curves. For men who have finally accepted the fact that there’s no agreement on whether coats should have two or three buttons, there are new challenges. And while slim fits in coats coats continue to gain ground, Brioni, Canali and others are offering a more forgiving cut in the waist. In their case it’s the details that update the look.

Below are three key coat styles for the season.

Single-button coats
WHAT IT SAYS: Music and fashion player!
Earlier this summer, at a press conference in Namibia to announce the birth of his first child with Angelina Jolie, one thing rescued Brad Pitt’s T-shirt and jeans from banality : a one-button sport coat.
After years of pushing suits and sport coats with three button and even flirting with an almost Mao-like four some designers are going with the most minimal closure yet. The one-button coat has recently made several notable Hollywood appearances. In addition to Mr. Pitt, actor Jared Leto has been photographed in a J. Lindeberg trim-fitting wool version with peaked lapels. Movie director, producer and writer M. Night Shyamalan wore a wool one-but-ton Z Zegna jacket, from Ermenegildo Zegna, while promoting his most recent film, “Lady in the Water.”

The material makes a difference. Z Zegna’s trim-cut coat, in a camelhair fabric, could transform a nerdy guy into a cool one without making him look like he is trying too hard, says Michael Macko, vice president and men’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. The camel hair makes the $795 coat accessible to a broader audience. “It’s for the guy who is probably a little older, a little more classic, who still wants to be perceived as hip,” Mr. Macko says.


Slim, with a rollover lapel
WHAT IT SAYS: Downtown ad exec!
For trim and fit men, slimmed down coats are on an upswing especially those in preppy styles. Several three-button designs feature a lapel that folds over the top button, giving a two-button look. Designer Michael Bastian’s midnight navy English wool hopsack sport coat is anything but traditional, with higher armholes, narrower lapels and a slightly shorter length. The Italian-made jacket also has a center vent, nickel buttons and only a smidgen of padding at the shoulders.
The extreme version: super-short, tailored sport coats. Jeffery Kalinsky, founder and chief executive of the Jeffery boutiques in New York and Georgia, suggests a navy wool sport coat and a black and white herringbone-patterned tweed version, both from Thom Browne. The caution, Mr. Kalinsky says: They work best for very lean guys.



The forgiving waist.
WHAT IT SAYS: Executive who lunches!
For the guy who may have already surrendered his washboard stomach, a worsted cashmere sport coat by Brioni nods at today’s style but offers a more forgiving fit. It has narrow lapels with a higher notch, side vents and soft shoulders. The lapel is also rolled over the third button. “It’s a sexy jacket that makes a conservative person feel like they are part of what’s going on, says Tom Kalenderian, general merchandise manager for menswear at Barneys. “It’s very L.A. chic.”
Then there’s tweed. Not the heavy old-fashioned tweed, but smoother and sportier versions, like the Italian fabric used vented jacket. A more affordable version is J. Crew’s coat, with three buttons and slightly tailored fit.


We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com